A Mughal Christmas: Celebrating 'Eid-e-Tawallud' in Old Delhi

Christmas in Old Delhi is a unique experience, a vibrant blend of Mughal and Christian traditions that has evolved over centuries. This article delves into the heart of these celebrations, exploring their historical context, the fusion of customs, and the cultural significance for the people of Old Delhi, particularly in the Turkmen Gate area.

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A historical tapestry

The seeds of this cultural fusion were sown during the Mughal era. Emperor Akbar, known for his religious tolerance and inquisitiveness, invited Portuguese Jesuits to his court in 1579. This interaction exposed the Mughal court to Christian imagery and sparked an interest in Christmas celebrations. Akbar's successor, Jahangir, continued this tradition, attending Christmas festivities hosted by Armenian Christians in Delhi. These early interactions laid the foundation for the unique Christmas celebrations that would flourish in Old Delhi.

Adding to this rich mix were the Anglo-Indians, a community with strong ties to British colonial history. In the early 20th century, many Anglo-Indians resided in the Kashmiri Gate and Mori Gate areas, and St. James Church became a focal point for their religious and social life, especially during Christmas. This church, built by James Skinner in 1836, was a prominent landmark even in the time of the renowned Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib, reflecting the long-standing presence of Christianity in Old Delhi.

The Mughal emperors' embrace of religious diversity extended beyond Christianity. During Shah Jahan's reign, when the Mughal capital shifted from Agra to Delhi, he actively supported the celebration of major Hindu festivals like Dussehra. This festival, commemorating the victory of good over evil, was celebrated with great splendor, with the emperor himself participating in the festivities. This historical context underscores the Mughal rulers' openness to different faiths and their contribution to the multicultural fabric of Old Delhi.

Mughal Influences on Christmas in Old Delhi

The Mughal influence on Christmas celebrations in Old Delhi is multifaceted. Mughal artists, renowned for their intricate and detailed work, incorporated Christmas scenes into their paintings, showcasing the integration of Western traditions into the Mughal artistic landscape. The Nativity play, a tradition with European roots, found its way into the Mughal court during Akbar's reign, further demonstrating the cultural exchange.

Jahangir's participation in Christmas festivities, documented in historical records, highlights the Mughal emperors' acceptance and appreciation of Christian traditions. This royal patronage contributed to the growth and evolution of Christmas celebrations in Old Delhi. For example, during Jahangir's visit to Delhi in 1625-26, Armenian Christians presented him with gifts, and the emperor, in turn, reciprocated with gestures of goodwill. This exchange of gifts symbolizes the mutual respect and understanding that characterized the relationship between the Mughals and the Christian community.

The Role of Turkmen Gate

Turkmen Gate, a historic gateway in Old Delhi, holds a special significance for the Christian community. It was once home to a thriving Christian colony, and although many families have moved out over time, they still return to Turkmen Gate to celebrate Christmas. This annual pilgrimage reflects the strong connection between the community and this historic area. The Central Baptist Church, located near Turkmen Gate, is known for holding mass in Urdu, a beautiful example of how Christian practices have adapted to the local culture.

The Holy Trinity Church, located in Turkmen Gate, serves as a focal point for Christmas celebrations. Built in 1905, it stands as a testament to the enduring Christian presence in Old Delhi. The church's role in fostering community spirit and preserving traditions is undeniable.

Evolution of Christmas Celebrations

Christmas celebrations in Old Delhi have evolved over time, adapting to the changing social and cultural landscape. While traditional practices like attending midnight mass and caroling remain central, new elements have been incorporated. The influence of globalization is evident in the decorations and festivities, with Santa Claus making appearances in the bustling streets of Chandni Chowk.

One notable example of this cultural fusion is the term 'Eid-e-Tawallud,' used to refer to Christmas in Old Delhi. This term, meaning "celebration of the birth," reflects the integration of Mughal terminology into the Christian celebration. Carols sung in churches often incorporate Punjabi and Urdu influences, further demonstrating the blending of traditions.

Despite these changes, the core values of community, sharing, and goodwill remain deeply rooted in the celebrations. The Christian community in Old Delhi continues to find ways to blend their traditions with the surrounding culture, creating a unique and vibrant expression of Christmas. Even as families have dispersed throughout Delhi, they carry the spirit and traditions of Old Delhi with them, ensuring the continuation of these unique customs.

Symbolism and Meaning

The Christmas celebrations in Old Delhi are rich in symbolism. Decorations play a vital role in creating a festive atmosphere. Churches and homes are adorned with lights, stars, and bells, each carrying symbolic meaning. The star symbolizes the Star of Bethlehem, guiding the wise men to the birthplace of Jesus, while the bell signifies an important announcement, the birth of Christ.

Candles hold a special significance, representing Jesus as the light of the world. The tradition of lighting candles during Christmas has its roots in the Middle Ages and continues to be an integral part of the celebrations. In addition to traditional Christmas decorations, homes in Old Delhi are often adorned with banana or mango leaves, reflecting the influence of local customs. In Indian tradition, the mango tree is considered sacred, and its leaves are used to decorate homes for special occasions. Small clay oil-burning lamps are also lit, symbolizing baby Jesus as the light of the world. To imitate the look of snow, which is absent in Delhi's winter, cotton wool is often incorporated into the decorations, showcasing a creative adaptation of Western imagery.

Food and Festivities

Food is an essential part of Christmas celebrations in Old Delhi. Traditional Christmas feasts often include a fusion of Mughlai and Christian cuisine. Dishes like biryani, kebabs, and traditional sweets – Gijiyas (Deep-fried dumplings filled with a sweet mixture), Namak paras (Crispy, savory crackers), Shakkar paras (Sweet crackers coated with sugar), Bajre ki tikiyas (Fritters made from pearl millet) are enjoyed by the community. This culinary blend reflects the cultural harmony that characterizes Christmas in Old Delhi.

The Christmas spirit extends beyond the Christian community, with people of different faiths participating in the festivities. This inclusivity is a testament to the spirit of unity and goodwill that Christmas embodies. Midnight Mass is a significant event, with families and friends attending church services together, followed by a feast and gift-giving. The sense of community is further strengthened by the tradition of sharing Christmas cake or the sweet rice pudding called kheer with neighbors.

Adding to the festive spirit are the bustling Christmas markets that pop up throughout Delhi. These markets offer a wide array of Christmas souvenirs, decorations, and treats, creating a vibrant atmosphere. There's a friendly competition among businesses to create the most impressive Christmas displays, adding to the festive ambiance. Delhi's nightlife also comes alive with Christmas parties and events, offering opportunities for revelry and celebration. Gift-giving is an important part of the celebrations, with new clothes often being exchanged as a symbol of fresh beginnings.

Bakeries in Old Delhi play a special role in the Christmas festivities. Establishments like Maxim's, known for its classic pastries and cakes, offer special Christmas treats like Belgian chocolate and fruit-and-nut cakes. Frontier Bakery, a favorite for its rum cakes and chocolate cookies, provides a taste of nostalgia with its traditional recipes.

Christmas in Old Delhi is a testament to the enduring power of cultural fusion. The blend of Mughal and Christian traditions has created a unique celebration that is both deeply rooted in history and vibrantly alive in the present. The celebrations in the Turkmen Gate area, in particular, highlight the resilience of community and the beauty of cultural exchange. This syncretism is evident in various aspects, from the Urdu mass at the Central Baptist Church to the use of the term 'Eid-e-Tawallud' and the incorporation of Mughal architectural elements in churches.

The Christian community in Old Delhi has skillfully adapted Christmas traditions to the Indian context, using local ingredients in their cuisine, incorporating Indian symbolism in their decorations, and blending Western carols with local musical influences. This adaptability reflects a deep respect for both their own heritage and the surrounding culture.

Old Delhi's Christmas celebrations are not merely a religious observance but a vibrant expression of the city's diverse history and its long-standing tradition of cultural exchange. The Mughal emperors' acceptance of Christmas, alongside their support for Hindu festivals like Dussehra, laid the groundwork for this inclusive and harmonious celebration. As Old Delhi continues to evolve, its Christmas celebrations will undoubtedly remain a vibrant tapestry of tradition and adaptation, a testament to the city's unique identity as a melting pot of cultures.