At the hands of Executive Chef Santosh Kumar Sethy of ITC Fortune, Puri, a classic Odia dish is transformed into an unforgettable culinary experience. His rendition of Ilish Macha Besara is more than just a meal; it is a vibrant celebration of tradition, a delicate dance of pungent and tangy flavors that pays homage to the region's most prized fish. This dish is a testament to the chef's profound understanding of his native cuisine, presenting the revered Hilsa in a mustard gravy that is both intensely flavorful and exquisitely balanced.
The heart of this creation is the besara—a potent, golden-hued gravy that is the hallmark of Odia cooking. Its journey begins with the careful soaking of black and yellow mustard seeds, which are then ground with garlic and red chili into a fine, sharp paste. This foundational element is what gives the dish its signature pungent kick. Chef Sethy masterfully sautés this paste in smoking mustard oil, a technique that mellows its raw intensity while awakening its complex aromatics. The air fills with the sharp, unmistakable fragrance of mustard, mingling with the subtle heat of green chilies and the earthy notes of curry leaves. The addition of ambula, a traditional dried green mango, introduces a layer of sourness that brilliantly cuts through the richness of the fish, creating a beautifully rounded and harmonious flavor profile.
The choice of fish is central to the dish's identity. The Hilsa, or Ilish, is treasured for its rich, oily flesh and distinctive flavor, which is almost sweet in its freshness. In a nod to authentic Odia tradition, the fish is not deep-fried, a deliberate choice that preserves its natural oils and delicate texture. Instead, the pieces are gently rubbed with turmeric and salt before being gently simmered in the simmering besara. As it cooks, the fish becomes incredibly tender, its flaky texture absorbing the intricate flavors of the mustard gravy. Each bite offers a melt-in-your-mouth experience, where the natural richness of the Hilsa is perfectly complemented by the gravy's sharp, tangy, and subtly spicy notes.
Presented with elegant simplicity, the golden curry envelops the glistening pieces of fish, garnished with a sprig of fresh coriander. A final drizzle of raw mustard oil just before serving adds a final, fragrant flourish that elevates the entire dish. The aroma is intoxicating—a complex blend of pungent mustard, tangy mango, and the rich scent of the Hilsa itself. Served with a mound of simple steamed rice, which acts as the perfect canvas for the powerful flavors of the gravy, this Ilish Macha Besara is not merely food, but a story. It’s a compelling invitation from Chef Sethy to explore the depths of Odia cuisine and a persuasive reason to visit, sit down, and savor a true masterpiece of regional Indian cooking.
